I ate twice at Heston Blumenthal’s newly reworked Little Chef last week. He has revamped the design and the menu for a Channel 4 show in January. He’s serving mostly dishes he worked on for the Perfection series, including chili con carne, trifle, CTM, fish and chips, burgers, black forest gateaux, steak and chips, spag bol, and bangers and mash. I had the Olympic Breakfast, chili, and trifle, and they were all spot on. Unfussy, ungreasy, unbelievably quick food.